This setup will let ya control your idle and have it set to a certain RPM for idling.

Ok, to start off with you will have to call Radio Shack at 1-800-THE-SHACK or similar store or stop there and order some parts. The potentiometer and relays are not stocked at your local Radio Shack; they can order them or you can get them online at www.newark.com.

Parts List:

• SINGLE POLE SINGLE THROW SWITCH — Radio Shack PT# 275-612
• 10-TURN 2K POTENTIOMETER — Newark PT# 3540S-1-202
• 2 SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW AUTO RELAYS — Newark PT# VF4-15F13
• RECTIFIER DIODE — Radio Shack PT# 276-1101
• 20 GAUGE STRANDED WIRE
• SOLDER & SOLDER GUN
• SAFETY GLASSES
• TAPE AND/OR HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND WIRE TIES

Left to right: relay / relay / potentiometer / switch

Ok, time to get to work! :) Here is the wiring diagram:

(Click diagram to view full size)

WHEN YOU'RE UNDER YOUR DASH SOLDERING WIRES, PROTECT YOUR CARPET WITH SOME RAGS. If you drop hot solder into the rug you will not get it out and it will burn it too. PLEASE BE CAREFUL SOLDERING.

STEP 1: Switches

Find a power source that is on with the key. Run a wire from there to one side of the switch. From the other side of the switch, run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays (terminal #1). From the other side coil terminals (terminal #2) on the relays, run a wire to the parking brake switch wire (there is only one wire on the parking brake).

STEP 2: Idle Validation Switch (IVS)

As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together; carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays (terminal #3). The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS — you will just tap onto this wire so you don't need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

STEP 3: The Other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires (there should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire).

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side (terminal #3) of the other relay. Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay.

Ok, take the pot and turn it all the way counter-clockwise and measure to find which 2 terminals give you 2000 ohms. This reading will get closer to 0 ohms as you turn it clockwise.

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) of the relay and go to one of the terminals on the POT. Now take a wire from the other terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy! To use: set the E-BRAKE and turn the switch on to activate. Now to increase the RPM, TURN the shaft on the POT CLOCKWISE. Remember this is a fine adjustment pot so it might take a few turns to get it close to where you want it, then only a small turn thereafter to get it perfectly where you want it.

Rectifier Diode (Radio Shack PT# 276-1101)

This diode goes on the wire heading to the e-brake switch to keep the e-brake dash light from back-feeding into the system. This is ESPECIALLY needed if you run a lighted toggle switch.

This is a pic of everything wired up on a bench ready to be installed in the truck:

Everything all tucked up and job done:

Switches mounted under the dash cubby hole: